Comments on YourClimbing.com

It all sounds like fun. We have enjoyed camping and hiking the parks in the area, canyonlands, Brice, Zion. It is all wonderful open space and hot this time of year, perhaps too hot! We usually go in sept or octobor. Good luck, let us know how you do (did?). JIM "A good scare is worth more to a man than good advice." ----Ed Howe American journalist

Gonzo seems to be too busy with the puppy to respond lately...
His name is Japha',but Rockrat could be a good middle name I suppose...

hehehe,,,,CW, I miss all our former 2007 silly chatter here on site.   Good to see your mind is still headed in the same sticky direction.  Meanwhile, I've got to clean off my sticky rubber for today's adventure.

Congrats GB, glad to see your new one. I think you should name him Rockrat.
Cheers!

You said "nuts and STICKY Rubbers" hehehehe!!!!

Cheers!

I felt about as excited there, as Badash' does when she's within 500 ft. of a killer boulder problem. A good feeling for sure.

Looks good...nice job, WC.

Best hunk of granite there is. I miss those days back in the 70's...

No, it's one of the prize cracks at Long Wall. This and 'Autumn are superb trad cracks. Felt good to be hauling a load of cams, nuts, and moving up on sticky rubber once again.

WC, glad to see you are back in the game. Is that route at Funkrock City?

That's the same way Gonzo just got his new pup a couple weeks ago. He is due to post up some nice photos and a doggie-bio soon.

Got one of those tuber things. Only 10mm or less would fit in it. It's not a rope wrapped around a sweet potato, that's for sure.
Sticht plates, with a spring, are totally awesome. I still have 3 and use them. Nothing feeds rope more smoothly than a spring sticht plate. No lock off in design, you must tie off or wrap it around something to hold tight a long time. But it was very dynamic in holding a fall.
Didn't we have a 'history' item long ago posted here about old equipment?

Yep. Dr. G-Wack has it. Takes a bit of time when first done. Most make mistake of clipping in desperately to lowest link, then have a mess to fix with ropes and body weight all trying to share the same space. Don't forget to tie a big bight of rope off to your harness before you untie yourself to pass the rope. Nothing sucks worse than to be anchored in nicely and then drop your rope with no tie in. Oooops, somebody relead this route please!

Well I got a daisy chain cuz they do have chain anchors atop most these trad' routes it seems. And I got a few draws I guess, leftover from the last sporty route done. Thin crack, only needed a few similar sized cams to ram in there on that first pitch. Had I owned some nice plaid shorts, I'd have worn them too.
Actually I was just talking to my old climbing partner about dressing 70's style from now on if doing trad, and in Prana or such fashions if doing sport leads. Best to look the part correctly I say.

Ah, just giving you a hard time WC after your comment about the kids plaid shorts in another pic a couple of days ago. Good to see you're back on the rock after the ankle incident. :)
Where's your gear sling in this pic anyway? Here I thought you were a TRUE traddie. (all racked up like a sport climber) ;)

Here are a couple of pics I found online of tubers...


The device on the left is a stitch plate.
The Tuber was the precursor to the ATC and I don't think they where a very popular device. I never used one but did see them around in the early nineties but never heard of how safe or unsafe they where.

Yes, my '08 Prana purchase from Miguels. I swear they were unisex pants, really. Man-pris I suppose. Better than baggy street gangbanger 'shorts' that hang off your ass and down to your ankles. These are true climbing pants cuz I'm a true climber again these days. Hey, at least I'm not in my 30 yr. old Chouinard pants like I wore for the entire 80's.

..and we certainly are/were consistant in our efforts so far. Next time, Rock Wars dude! That climb is so awesome and eats pro' like a real crack should.

I’m not familiar with this particular accident. The devise I know as a “tuber” is quite old it dates back to 1989 ish maybe 91. It is the precursor to today’s ATC. I still have one and when we were belaying off figure 8’s it was an advancement.
One of the problems with it was remembering which way to turn it. There was a narrow side when this was up the devise was much tighter, with the wide end up it was much looser. You have to remember this was in the days when most ropes were 11mm or greater. If you were using a thinner rope and had the wide side turned to the top, or were inexperienced with the device you would not have a lot of strength on the belay and it could get away from you.
While the tube design eventually became the dominant style of devise the first one was sketchy.

Nice shorts WC! Or are those man-pris? (look like man-pris to me) ;)